Fashion evokes our emotions as much as any art form or aesthetic practice. South Korean designer, Moohong Kim, effectively captured the anxiety of this decade in his latest collection for FW20. Hosted in Garage Lubeck in the 16th Arrondissement on February 26th, the collection featured the overarching themes of the brand's signature and subdued styling. It incorporated linear reconstructions of elongated trench coats, blazers, and knitwear.
The palette of the presentation was a neutral panoply of a looming storm, using marine tones of off-whites, beiges, heavy indigos, and deep greys, interspersed with bursts of color, specifically in the form of deep aquamarine and a tweed ensemble.
The modern reworkings of each piece were accompanied by an ambient soundtrack, which was quickly countered by a striking electric score, reminiscent of a Kubrick film.
The minimal nature of each outfit and the concise quantity of the collection invoked a simplistic, yet modernly effortless elegance, challenged by subtle piercings.
The show was put an emphasis on androgynous themes. Clothes were tailored with oversized, boxy silhouettes.
The collection itself possessed a wistfulness in its monochromatic, yet sophisticated touches, that harkened back to the '80s. The barefaced makeup and simple hairstyles only cemented this motif.
The hairstyles of the show featured geometric concepts. The presentation started with a platinum buzz-cut look, followed by tightly wound headscarves and evolved into accentuated straight bangs and lobbed cuts, creating a sense of uniformity.
The models sported identical round houndstooth glasses throughout the show, giving the impression of them focusing on the same vision. The materials and textures were composed of a refined interplay of twills, linens, and wool with a couple of notable exceptions in tulle, like a delicately assembled blouse ruched on the left.
The calm turbulence of the monochromatic show and steady paced sequence gave the show an existential quality that is worth comparing to a piece of art.
Fiona McMurrey Photographed: